Tom Ford’s American Psycho energy, Demna’s flat Gucci debut, a brutal satire of the ultra-rich, and Loewe going full experiment mode. Here’s what actually happened on the runway.
Tom Ford
Haider Ackermann’s fingerprints are all over this collection and that’s not a bad thing. The clothes were strong. But the internet’s reaction to a plain white runway set being “revolutionary”? It isn’t. Designers have been doing that for decades.
That said – the dark army-green leather coat stopped the show. Soft leather, sharp tailoring. The kind of coat that carries an entire outfit on its own.
“Sometimes simplicity done well is all you really need.”
The highlight? An American Psycho section that felt genuinely timely. Herringbone suits, leather gloves, and the most on-the-nose moment: a clear vinyl coat lined in black crocodile leather. The models even sized each other up on the runway. Tense. Confrontational. Slightly sexual. It worked.
Demna for Gucci – Slop
Titled Primavera, this collection was supposed to signal a lighter, more refined direction for Gucci. Instead, it felt flat. No tension. No energy. No real Gucci moment. Nothing here screamed the house — or anything particularly exciting.
Demna admitted he intentionally simplified his approach compared to Balenciaga. But that simplicity just stripped out the friction that makes fashion interesting in the first place.
“If I didn’t know Demna before, this collection would have been extremely disappointing.”
Amelia Gray was a perfect casting choice — her walk suits this kind of runway. And Kate Moss made sense as a nod to the 1990s heroin-chic era that Tom Ford’s Gucci defined. But casting doesn’t save clothes.
Matieres Fecales
The 1 Percent wasn’t just a runway show — it was satire. Dior silhouettes from the 1950s. Red gloves symbolizing blood on the hands. Eyes covered in banknotes. Distorted faces referencing botched plastic surgery. A white set clearly riffing on Chanel’s iconic tweed.
The show parodied Dior, McQueen, Balenciaga, and the entire luxury system — and committed to it fully, without apology.
“Fashion sometimes tries too hard to be polite. I like when designers stop doing that.”
Loewe
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are only two collections in — and they’re already building their own Loewe language. 3D-printed looks, latex pieces, bold coloured coats. This collection leaned into playfulness and delivered on it.
What’s interesting is how they’re blending traditional Loewe craft with technology — and for their first time showing menswear, they actually took risks. Textures, shapes, colour. In a category where designers love to play it safe, that matters.